Joel Robuchon: 5 things you can learn from him

Joël Robuchon was a world-famous French master chef and restaurateur who was named „Chef of the Century“ by Gault Millau in 1989 and was awarded the title of „Meilleur Ouvrier de France“ in 1976. He was the chef with the most Michelin stars - 32 in total.

Chef of the century. That's a title you don't hear too often. Robuchon was one of the greatest chefs of his generation. Not only did he collect the most Michelin stars of all time, he also won the „Meilleur Ouvrier de France“, one of the highest awards a chef can receive.

1. meals are sacred

Robuchon grew up in a traditional French family and always appreciated the ceremonial baking practices of the Catholic faith. He was fascinated by how food was always blessed before it was eaten and therefore wanted to become a priest.

Food was something sacred to him from a young age. As a boy, he began helping in the kitchen, and before he knew it, he realized his true purpose in life: to master the art of cooking. In his youth, he left the seminary and dedicated himself directly to perfecting his craft.

The boy from Poitiers embarked on a journey that transformed him from an ordinary French child growing up in a poor household in post-war France into one of the greatest chefs of all time.

2. Robuchon & Jamin's rise

He started like any other Frenchman through the Brigade de Cuisine and worked his way up from the bottom. He quickly rose through the ranks, from aide pâtissier (assistant pastry chef) to chef de cuisine (head chef), where he ran the kitchens in the Concorde Lafayette (with a team of 90 people when he was just 29) and shortly afterwards at the Nikko Hotel, where he won two Michelin stars.

Five years after winning the „Meilleur Ouvrier de France“, Robuchon decided to open his own restaurant in Paris - Jamin. What happened next made history. It received a Michelin star year after year. Opened in 1981, it received three Michelin stars in 1984 and was also named „Best Restaurant in the World“ by the International Herald Tribune.

3rd Ramsay & Robuchon

It is widely known how much Robuchon inspired Gordon Ramsay, especially in his early days. Robuchon was a pretty cheerful guy, but in the kitchen he was a completely different animal.

Ramsay, as most of us know, is hot-tempered and (slightly) arrogant. You can imagine how the two would have clashed in the kitchen. Once Robuchon wasn't happy with Ramsay's langoustine ravioli and Ramsay didn't take the criticism well. 

One thing led to another, and before you knew it, Ramsay was banging cooking utensils around and threatening to quit Robuchon in the heat of the moment. Obviously, the man wasn't going to put up with it. Robuchon threw a plate of food in Ramsay's face. „That was the only time I ever threw a plate at someone,“ Robuchon said years later in an interview with The Telegraph.

The two definitely had a close relationship, characterized by a great deal of respect. To this day, Ramsay calls Robuchon the „godfather of Michelin stars“.

4 The magic lies in simplicity

Robuchon was special in the way he always used only a few ingredients in most of his dishes. He didn't go for extravagance, but focused on 2-3 flavors and let them shine. He was a genius at influencing the palate and it was this attention to detail that catapulted him to the top. „It's important to respect the integrity of the ingredients by preserving their flavors and aromas,“ he said.

Digression: Did you know?

The Michelin star was invented by the founders of Michelin tires, André Michelin and Édouard Michelin. To promote their tires, they distributed free copies of the Michelin Guide, which not only included instructions on how to change and repair tires, but also showed a map of the best restaurants and amenities in France. The first Michelin stars were awarded in 1926, and the 3-star rating system was introduced four years later in 1931.

5th recipe: Robuchon's famous "Pommes Purées"

Yes, you read that right. This man's most famous dish is mashed potatoes. Robuchon has perfected the art of mashing, and over the next few pages I'll break down his technique and recipe for you to try in the comfort of your own home.

Ingredients (for two people)
- 1 medium-sized potato
- 2 generous pieces of grass-fed butter, cut into small pieces (approx. 40 g)
- 40 ml warm whole milk (same amount as butter)
- Salt & Pepper (S&P)

Equipment
- Pot
- 2 small pots (sauce pans)
- Vegetable mill (important for Michelin-worthy consistency)
- Whisk

Technology
- Wash the potatoes and boil them in a pan of salted water over a low heat for 20-30 minutes.
- As soon as they are cooked, peel them immediately (protect your hands).
- Press through the vegetable mill on the finest setting while still hot.
- Heat the puree in a saucepan over a low to medium heat and stir continuously with a wooden spatula for a few minutes until it looks a little dry.
- Take it off the heat and add the butter while continuing to stir vigorously. The faster you stir, the smoother and creamier it will be.
- As soon as the butter is fully incorporated, add the warm milk (heat separately beforehand).
- Beat well with a whisk until everything is perfectly mixed and season with salt and pepper to taste.

„It's this simple but tasty dish that has done the most for my restaurant's reputation. For a good mash, choose potatoes of a uniform size so that they are all cooked at the same time. For my restaurant, I only used the best rattes from Jean-Pierre Clot from Jouy-le-Châtel (Seine-et-Marne), larger than the usual potatoes of this variety and, above all, of exceptional flavor.

Pay attention to the ratio of salt in the cooking water: it is no coincidence that you add salt right at the beginning.

In the vegetable mill, you need a strong wrist movement to dry the puree with a wooden spatula.

Add the fresh butter first and only then the whole milk.
Finish with a whisk to make the puree lighter.“

- Joël Robuchon