Joel Robuchon: 5 Things You Can Learn From Him

Joël Robuchon was a world-famous French master chef and restaurateur who was named "Chef of the Century" by Gault Millau in 1989 and received the title of "Meilleur Ouvrier de France" in 1976. He was the chef with the most Michelin stars – a total of 32.

Chef of the Century. That is a title you don't hear too often. Robuchon was one of the greatest chefs of his generation. He not only collected the most Michelin stars of all time but also achieved the "Meilleur Ouvrier de France" – one of the highest honors a chef can attain.

1. Meals are Sacred

Robuchon grew up in a traditional French family and always appreciated the ceremonial baking practices in the Catholic faith. He was fascinated by how meals were always blessed before consumption and therefore wanted to become a priest.

Food was something sacred to him from a young age. As a boy, he began helping in the kitchen, and before he knew it, he recognized his true life's purpose: to master the culinary arts. In his youth, he left the seminary and devoted himself directly to perfecting his craft.

The boy from Poitiers embarked on a journey that took him from an ordinary French child growing up in a poor household in post-war France to one of the greatest chefs of all time.

2. The Rise of Robuchon & Jamin

He started like any other Frenchman through the Brigade de Cuisine and worked his way up from the bottom. He quickly climbed the ranks, from Aide Pâtissier (assistant to the pastry chef) to Chef de Cuisine (head chef), where he led the kitchens at the Concorde Lafayette (with a team of 90 people when he was just 29) and shortly after at the Nikko Hotel, where he earned two Michelin stars.

Five years after he won the "Meilleur Ouvrier de France," Robuchon decided to open his own restaurant in Paris – Jamin. What happened next made history. It received a Michelin star year after year. Opened in 1981. Three Michelin stars in 1984. It was also named the "Best Restaurant in the World" by the International Herald Tribune.

3. Ramsay & Robuchon

It is well known how much Robuchon inspired Gordon Ramsay, especially in his early days. Robuchon was a pretty cheerful guy, but in the kitchen, he was a completely different beast.

Ramsay, as most of us know, is fiery and (slightly) arrogant. You can imagine how the two might have clashed in the kitchen. One time Robuchon was unhappy with Ramsay's langoustine ravioli, and Ramsay did not take the criticism well. 

One thing led to another, and before long, Ramsay was banging pots and pans around and threatened Robuchon in the heat of the moment to quit. Obviously, the man did not take this lightly. Robuchon threw a plate of food in Ramsay's face. "That was the only time I ever threw a plate at someone," Robuchon said years later in an interview with The Telegraph.

The two definitely had a close relationship, marked by much respect. Ramsay still refers to Robuchon as the "Godfather of Michelin Stars."

4. The Magic Lies in Simplicity

Robuchon was particularly remarkable in how he always used only a few ingredients in most of his dishes. He did not rely on extravagance but focused on 2-3 flavors and let them shine. He was a genius at influencing the palate, and it was this love for detail that catapulted him to the top. "It is important to respect the integrity of the ingredients by preserving their flavors and aromas," he said.

Sidebar: Did you know?

The Michelin star was created by the founders of Michelin tires, André Michelin and Édouard Michelin. To promote their tires, they distributed free copies of the Michelin Guide, which not only included instructions for changing and repairing tires but also showed a map of the best restaurants and amenities in France. The first Michelin stars were awarded in 1926, and the 3-star rating system was introduced four years later, in 1931.

5. Recipe: Robuchon's Famous "Pommes Purées"

Yes, you read that right. The man's most famous dish is mashed potatoes. Robuchon perfected the art of purée, and in the following pages, I will break down his technique and recipe for you so you can try it at home comfortably.

Ingredients (for two persons)
• 1 medium-sized potato
• 2 generous pieces of grass-fed butter, cut into small pieces (about 40 g)
• 40 ml warm whole milk (the same amount as butter)
• Salt & Pepper (S&P)

Equipment
• Pot
• 2 small pots (sauce pans)
• Vegetable mill (important for Michelin-worthy consistency)
• Whisk

Technique
• Wash the potatoes and boil them in a pot of salted water over low heat for 20–30 minutes.
• As soon as they are cooked, peel them immediately (protect your hands).
• Push them through a vegetable mill on the finest setting while still hot.
• Heat the puree in a pot over low to medium heat and continuously stir with a wooden spatula for a few minutes until it appears a little dry.
• Remove it from the heat and add the butter while stirring vigorously. The faster you stir, the smoother and creamier it will become.
• Once the butter is completely incorporated, add the warm milk (heat it separately first).
• Whisk it well until everything is perfectly mixed, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

“This is that simple yet flavorful dish which has done the most for the reputation of my restaurant. For a good puree, choose potatoes of uniform size so they all cook at the same time. For my restaurant, I only used the best Rattes from Jean-Pierre Clot of Jouy-le-Châtel (Seine-et-Marne), larger than the usual potatoes of this variety and above all of exceptional flavor.

Pay attention to the salt ratio in the cooking water: it is no coincidence that you salt right from the start.

In the vegetable mill, you need a strong wrist movement to dry the puree with a wooden spatula.

First add the fresh butter and only then the whole milk.
Finish it off with a whisk to make the puree lighter.”

— Joël Robuchon