Joel Robuchon: 5 Things You Can Learn From Him

Joël Robuchon was a world-famous French master chef and restaurateur, who was named "Chef of the Century" by Gault Millau in 1989 and received the title "Meilleur Ouvrier de France" in 1976. He was the chef with the most Michelin stars - a total of 32.

Chef of the Century. That is a title you don't hear too often. Robuchon was one of the greatest chefs of his generation. He not only collected the most Michelin stars of all time but also reached the "Meilleur Ouvrier de France" – one of the highest honors a chef can achieve.

1. Meals Are Sacred

Robuchon grew up in a traditional French family and always valued the ceremonial baking practices in the Catholic faith. He was fascinated by how food was always blessed before consumption, which made him want to become a priest.

Food was something sacred to him from a young age. As a boy, he began helping in the kitchen, and before he knew it, he recognized his true purpose in life: to master the culinary arts. In his youth, he left the seminary and devoted himself directly to perfecting his craft.

The boy from Poitiers embarked on a journey that would take him from a normal French child growing up in a poor household in post-war France to one of the greatest chefs of all time.

2. Robuchon & Jamin's Rise

He started like any other Frenchman via the Brigade de Cuisine and worked his way up from the bottom. He quickly climbed the ranks, from Aide Pâtissier (Assistant Pastry Chef) to Chef de Cuisine (Head Chef), where he led the kitchens at the Concorde Lafayette (with a team of 90 people when he was just 29) and shortly thereafter at the Nikko Hotel, where he earned two Michelin stars.

Five years after winning the "Meilleur Ouvrier de France," Robuchon decided to open his own restaurant in Paris – Jamin. What happened next made history. It received a Michelin star year after year. Opened in 1981. Three Michelin stars in 1984. It was also named the "Best Restaurant in the World" by the International Herald Tribune.

3. Ramsay & Robuchon

It is well known how much Robuchon inspired Gordon Ramsay, especially in his early days. Robuchon was quite a jolly guy, but in the kitchen, he was a completely different animal.

Ramsay, as most of us know, is hot-tempered and (slightly) arrogant. One can imagine how the two would clash in the kitchen. Once, Robuchon was not satisfied with Ramsay's langoustine ravioli, and Ramsay did not take the criticism well. 

One thing led to another, and before you knew it, Ramsay was banging cookware around and threatened to fire Robuchon in the heat of the moment. Obviously, the man did not take kindly to that. Robuchon threw a plate of food in Ramsay's face. "That was the only time I have ever thrown a plate at someone," Robuchon said years later in an interview with The Telegraph.

The two definitely had a close relationship, marked by much respect. Ramsay still refers to Robuchon as the "godfather of Michelin stars."

4. The Magic Lies in Simplicity

Robuchon was particularly known for how he always used only a few ingredients in most of his dishes. He did not rely on extravagance but focused on 2-3 flavors and let them shine. He was a genius at influencing the palate, and this very love for detail catapulted him to the top. "It's important to respect the integrity of the ingredients by preserving their flavors and aromas," he said.

Excursus: Did You Know?

The Michelin star was invented by the founders of Michelin tires, André Michelin and Édouard Michelin. To promote their tires, they distributed free copies of the Michelin Guide, which included not only instructions for changing and repairing tires but also a map of the best restaurants and amenities in France. The first Michelin stars were awarded in 1926, and the 3-star rating system was introduced four years later, in 1931.

5. Recipe: Robuchon's Famous "Pommes Purées"

Yes, you read that right. The most famous dish of this man is mashed potatoes. Robuchon perfected the art of purée, and on the following pages, I will break down his technique and recipe for you so you can try it comfortably at home.

Ingredients (for two people)
• 1 medium potato
• 2 generous pieces of grass-fed butter, cut into small pieces (approx. 40 g)
• 40 ml warm whole milk (same amount as butter)
• Salt & pepper (S&P)

Equipment
• Pot
• 2 small pots (sauce pans)
• Vegetable mill (important for Michelin-worthy consistency)
• Whisk

Technique
• Wash the potatoes and boil them in a pot of salted water over low heat for 20–30 minutes.
• As soon as they are cooked, peel them immediately (protect your hands).
• Pass them through a food mill on the finest setting while still hot.
• Heat the puree in a pot over low to medium heat and stir continuously with a wooden spatula for a few minutes until it appears a little dry.
• Remove it from the heat and add the butter while stirring vigorously. The faster you stir, the smoother and creamier it will become.
• Once the butter is fully incorporated, add the warm milk (heat it separately beforehand).
• Whisk it well until everything is perfectly blended, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

“This is that simple yet delicious dish that has done the most for my restaurant's reputation. For a good puree, choose potatoes of uniform size so that they all cook at the same time. For my restaurant, I only used the best Rattes from Jean-Pierre Clot in Jouy-le-Châtel (Seine-et-Marne), larger than the usual potatoes of this variety and above all of exceptional flavor.

Pay attention to the salt-to-water ratio when cooking: it’s no coincidence that you salt at the very beginning.

In the food mill, you need a strong wrist motion to dry out the puree with a wooden spatula.

Add the fresh butter first and then the whole milk.
Finish it with a whisk to make the puree lighter.”

— Joël Robuchon